Talk Of The Town

A trifecta of impending restaurant openings, and one departure

The rest of the meal only got worse, with an unchewably tough beef stew masquerading as a breakfast hash, and a pasta carbonara that had none of the custard cream the dish should have, but was merely buttery angel hair with peas, lardons, tomatoes (yes, tomatoes, for some reason), and the kind of parmesan cheese that had a plastic-like mouth feel and never melted into the pasta, reminding me of the pregrated, anti-caking agent-coated stuff you pull from a bag. Not what you expect in a restaurant where dinner for two easily tops $100.

In fact, it was the same old Bobino I negatively reviewed years ago, food for people who don't know any better. I glimpsed the wine list, now a dozen bottles shorter, and the new dinner menu, on which guests paying $12 for mussels and $27 for an entrée will now get to pay an extra $1.50 for a second basket of bread. And I really had to wonder how hard you have to work to take such a golden moment of victory and twist it into such bitter defeat. (BOBINO CAFÉ; 222 E. Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis, 612.623.3301; www.bobino.com)

 

Midtown revival: David Vlach is executive chef of the reinvented Town Talk Diner
Raoul Benavides
Midtown revival: David Vlach is executive chef of the reinvented Town Talk Diner

Location Info

Map

Town Talk Diner

2707 1/2 E. Lake St.
Minneapolis, MN 55406

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Seward/ Longfellow/ Minnehaha

Maybe, Just Maybe, One Day... But I hate to end on a down note, so here's a little happy news for your Someday, Over the Rainbow file: A replica of the Statue of Liberty has reportedly been commissioned for the old Jimmy Jingle building on Minneapolis's East Lake Street, at 13th Avenue. Why? So it can stand outside of "New York Plaza," a new variation on the Mercado Central idea with lots of food stalls sharing a single building. This plaza will not, however, be Mexican; it will be largely or entirely Latin American, featuring six to eight small restaurants serving regional specialties from the likes of Bolivia, Ecuador, El Salvador, and such. So, when will it open? One day. When's that? In the future. When? About the same time I get my filing done, pal, don't push it.

« Previous Page
 |
 
1
 
2
 
3
 
All
 
My Voice Nation Help
0 comments
 
Loading...