Indian Exceptionalism

Two new restaurants reinvigorate what was a seriously depressing local Indian food scene

When I talked to Kumar at the cash register one day, as he rang up my bill, he told me that Chutney would be a restaurant like the Village Wok in its prime, offering magic to true cooking connoisseurs who are interested in a pilgrimage. It's hard for me to see this: From what I've seen of Minnesota restaurant culture most people would rather have a good Scotch in a faux Tuscan anything than great saffron chicken in a grocery store, but we will see. In any event, if you yourself have been thrice-burned by local Indian restaurants lately, please know that, in at least two instances, it's safe, and even fun, to venture out again.

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