Indian Exceptionalism

Two new restaurants reinvigorate what was a seriously depressing local Indian food scene

Dishes from the generically (but aptly) named Great India
Bill Kelley
Dishes from the generically (but aptly) named Great India

Location Info


Chutney Indian Grill

3700 Central Ave. NE
Columbia Heights, MN 55421

Category: Restaurant >

Region: Columbia Heights

Great India

6056 Shingle Creek Parkway
Brooklyn Center, MN 55430

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Brooklyn Center

When I talked to Kumar at the cash register one day, as he rang up my bill, he told me that Chutney would be a restaurant like the Village Wok in its prime, offering magic to true cooking connoisseurs who are interested in a pilgrimage. It's hard for me to see this: From what I've seen of Minnesota restaurant culture most people would rather have a good Scotch in a faux Tuscan anything than great saffron chicken in a grocery store, but we will see. In any event, if you yourself have been thrice-burned by local Indian restaurants lately, please know that, in at least two instances, it's safe, and even fun, to venture out again.

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