Space Cadets

A new Lyn-Lake pizza joint combines do-gooding, fun, and pizza to charming effect

Actually, vegans should take note, because Galactic is doing cartwheels to make you all happy: A pizza topped with marinara, hemp pesto, morels, and vegan cheese could be quite pleasant. And there's even a vegan barbecue chicken pizza with mock duck and vegan cheese.

There's also a whole thing I don't want to get into, but for some of you, please note that if you order within four minutes of 4:20 p.m., you'll get $4.20 off your pizza. Cough, cough. Otherwise, pizza pricing starts at $6.75 for a 10-inch plain cheese pizza; most pizzas are in the basic $12 to $18 region for a 14-inch pie; the place is open from 11:00 a.m. till midnight most days, and till 1:00 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. The delivery area is basically Lyn-Lake, Uptown, the eastern side of the lakes, the Wedge, Whittier, Carag, and Lyndale.

Of their specialty pizzas I tried, my favorite was the "CSA" pizza (a pie topped with whatever tasty things the farm delivers that week) of the moment: It was very, very fresh chèvre, mozzarella, and thin slices of green garlic, those scallion-like, garlic-tasting shoots on a "bianca" sauce of garlic and olive oil. It tasted fresh and rich, sweet and pure, light and focused, and reminded me of nothing so much as a classic Italian ricotta pie, except thinner.

Really Super Heros: From left to right, pizza delivery schticksters Pete Bonahoom (a.k.a. Galactus), T.J. Sudbeck (a.k.a. Space Cowboy), Mike Venske (a.k.a. Captain Fantastic), and Joani Frasier (a.k.a. Galactic Gal)
Bill Kelley
Really Super Heros: From left to right, pizza delivery schticksters Pete Bonahoom (a.k.a. Galactus), T.J. Sudbeck (a.k.a. Space Cowboy), Mike Venske (a.k.a. Captain Fantastic), and Joani Frasier (a.k.a. Galactic Gal)

Location Info

Map

Galactic Pizza

2917 Lyndale Ave. S.
Minneapolis, MN 55408

Category: Restaurant > Health

Region: Uptown/ Eat Street

The Paul Bunyan was even pretty good--and I went into it blazing with skepticism. You see, this thing is based on the concept of expressing the Minnesota ecosystem through pizza, which means combining wild rice, buffalo sausage, morel mushrooms, and that local mozzarella. Now, like many of you, I have been traumatized by wild rice tucked inside spring rolls and wontons, suspended in Jell-O, layered in cheesecakes, hidden in quiches, incorporated into every imaginable type of soup and chowder. And so now, like all of us, when I hear about wild rice in strange places I get out my trusty fire axe and make for daylight. Yet, the wild rice in this instance works quite well, adding a simple dimension of crunch to a pie that is otherwise dominated by the nutty, woody, smoky flavors of morel and bison. Look, it's the future! We can have our ecosystem and eat it too.

I like the Paul Bunyan, and I like its vision. Because sometimes lately I've wondered if the Minnesota ecosystem would be best expressed by 30 Swedish meatballs barreling toward a line of ducks in the grill of a snarling Chevy Suburban. And this, this I think is the true marvel of Galactic Pizza: Just when you think you can't write one more story about organic food because of all the holier-than-thou nit-picking ninnies that shimmer up from the depths, just when you think you could pick up the newspaper and read, "Bush, Cheney sucking blood from infants for deferred Halliburton pension" and not blink an eye, just when you think the future is almost surely going to be about President Schwarzenegger and the international private prison cartels, then--just then--kids rush in in playful outfits full of hope, and life seems less bleak and more full of options.

I know that this is one of the reasons that people have kids, but now I think this is one of the beautiful things about living in a community, too: When you're plumb tuckered out, in comes someone else to lead the charge. That they are doing it playfully and joyfully, in glittering costumes, is much of the satisfaction of it. How fantastic is it that we live in a town so rich with folks right out of college, people smart enough to be smart, but young enough not to know better?

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