Jana Freiband
Ask the moms at the counter: Matthew Lee at Dong Yang
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As an added bonus, the family that runs E-Noodle is friendly, eager, sweet, and helpful. The dad wears this cute apron hand-decorated with puffy paint, the mom gets tongue-tied trying to explain the complex range of ingredients that make every dish, the little boy presses his nose against the front glass and looks outside at the trucks.
What does he think about the trucks? Hard to say, but I'd bet money his head is filled with life's most dangerous component: theories. I can only wish that his theories are as productive as mine have been. Because I really did find that there is some cheap, fascinating, delicious food to be had in the least auspicious-looking strip malls of the north, if only you believe, if only you persevere.