Bryn Mawr Star

In which Dara discovers a gem in the bottom of the mailbag

And paint me red and call me a fire hydrant if they weren't some of the best corner-deli sandwiches you could hope to find. The tuna melt was inside a roasty toasty sub and featured some nicely gooey tuna salad under a healthy spread of tomatoes, real melted cheddar, and some leaf lettuce that was perfectly fresh in the middle of all that meltiness--eureka! The Meatball Deluxe ($5.44 for a hoagie) was little marbles of sausage resting in a rich, spicy tomato sauce and tossed together with fine calamata olives, fresh chopped red onion, real house-made roasted red peppers, and both melty mozzarella and tangy feta. A weird meatball hoagie, as it technically didn't have any meatballs, but more importantly it reminded me of one of those idiosyncratic bits of kitchen genius that cooks come up with and eat where the customers can't see them: weird, but great.

I got the roast beef on a toasted onion roll ($2.99), and when I peeled back the foil and tasted the real beef, toasty onion, and fresh fixings all together I knew that the place was a great find. Not necessarily a drive-in-from-Shakopee find, but definitely a quick gourmet stop if you find yourself dashing along I-394 and hungry.

And this was before I tried the salads. Yeah, I said the salads. There's a spinach salad there that comes with a generous handful of sweet candied pecans, lots of fresh-cut strawberries, cute little buttons of mozzarella and red onion, and once you dress this with the little plastic cup of basil, orange, and ginger vinaigrette it comes with--a miracle! It's fresh, sweet, light, beguiling, in the same spirit as the cooking at Dayton's Oak Room, but 10 seconds off the freeway, and available till 11:00 most nights. At $5.75 an order they'd be a genius thing to bring to a potluck, too. The garlicky homemade crouton Caesar is better than most of the ones I see in restaurants, and at $4.50 doesn't cost much more than salad in a bag.

Pizza Pizza: Brooke Anderson hefts a Bryn Mawr Pizza and Deli pie
Michael Dvorak
Pizza Pizza: Brooke Anderson hefts a Bryn Mawr Pizza and Deli pie

Location Info

Map

Bryn Mawr Pizza And Deli

404 S. Cedar Lake Road
Minneapolis, MN 55405

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Uptown/ Eat Street

A cook named Jeanine Webster is responsible for the salad treats and makes a very genuine, crumbly, properly-heavily-textured cheesecake, and I blow her, as well as all the Andersons, a thousand kisses. The pizza isn't quite my cup of tea--when I tried it the crust was thicker and doughier than I prefer, almost focaccia-like--but hey, I know a lot of you prize those thicker, sweeter pizzas, so if you like pizza in the noble tradition of Fireside or Broadway Pizza, this is better than those. And if you live in the delivery area, you should have this place on speed dial. (Bryn Mawr Pizza and Deli, 404 S. Cedar Lake Rd.; 612.377.5501)

And I especially have to thank Bryn Mawr Pizza, or Fast Freddies, or whatever you want to call it, for restoring my faith in the path, the search, and for once again proving that it is indeed the trials in life that allow you to experience the simple joys keenly, most keenly.

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