Those, my friends, are just some of the many, many things you will get to try if only time would speed forward! With them, you'll get a crack at what I'm guessing is going to be the nation's largest sherry selection: some 20 to 40 by-the-glass options for sherries that Bill Summerville, general manager and sommelier, promises will change all of our collective minds about the meaning and possibility of sherry. "There will be eight different categories of sherry," says Summerville. "Sherry is one of those historic beverages that the more you learn, the more there is to learn." Sherry isn't necessarily about sweet, he cautions, and a consult with my wine encyclopedias has revealed to me that true amontillado or oloroso sherry is completely dry, and it's only through addition of some other thing, like an intensely sweet wine made from Pedro Ximénez grapes, or an actual sweetening syrup, that they are made so sugary. Well, I can't wait to find out.

Experimentation with sherries will mostly cost $4 to $9, but some of the oldest and rarest glasses may run as high as $35 for a two-ounce pour. The regular wine list will be entirely Spanish, with 20 bottles priced under $20. Will Solera be the four-star restaurant you stop at on the way to First Avenue? "We want people to come in here, have a great time, mix and match, eat, drink--and not have to wait for a birthday or anniversary to afford do it," explains Summerville.

So how does Tim McKee like this vast thing he and Josh Thoma have been working on for almost three years? This thing that will have rooftop music in the summer, a tapas bar, like a sushi bar, for interactive eating, and that puts him right in the thick of the Minnesota prestige-restaurant world? After all, it's mere walking distance for most of those chefs' old bosses to drop in and taunt them. "There is nothing about this place I am not excited about," says McKee. He's excited about the Gaudi-esque chandeliers, the communal table, the salt-and-pepper shakers, and every single thing, "except how much work it is." Except, it isn't work for me! Or you. Mark your calendars, as the restaurant opens for regular business April 7th.

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