Money Where Your Mouth Is

Turning over the final leaf, consider again that Dole organic-caesar-salad package, its nearly perfect two-inch squares of lettuce, the tiny dressing packet with its perforated corner, and the little baggie of crisp, brown croutons. Set it next to that head of local romaine, its leaves dark green and paler within, the shades of summer, dressed in a glistening coat of grassy olive oil and sharp red wine vinegar, a sprinkle of coarse salt and cracked black pepper. Which will you choose?

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