Me Gusta, No Me Gusta, Me Gusta...

Now I know that good people and restaurants really don't do evil things--it's just that the world is crawling with evil twins.

But even when one of Me Gusta's 100-some dishes isn't all you'd wish, you have the sense you're in good hands. Just stay away from the evil twin.

TABLEHOPPING

CARNE? NO GRACIAS: Creative Mexican vegetarian cuisine is woefully underrepresented in these parts, but you can take matters into your own hands with a copy of Victoria Wise's The Vegetarian Table: Mexico (Chronicle Books, $22.95 hardcover). Wise was formerly the chef at Alice Waters's Chez Panisse, and she knows how to put together the flashy-but-easy recipes we backyard gourmets/praise junkies adore.

Braised Greens with Black Olives and Capers

* 2 pounds leafy greens such as Swiss chard, beet greens, spinach or young kale, mustard, or dandelion, tough stems removed

* 3 tablespoons olive oil

* 1 small onion, finely chopped

* 1 garlic clove, minced or pressed

* 1 poblano or 2 jalapeño chiles, stemmed and finely chopped

* 12 black olives, such as kalamatas, pitted and coarsely chopped

* 1/3 cup capers, drained

* Salt to taste

Cut the greens crosswise into half-inch strips and rinse in plenty of cold water. Drain. Heat the oil in a large, nonreactive pot. Add the onion, garlic, and chile and sauté until the onion wilts, about two minutes. Stir in the greens, olives, and capers. Cover and cook over medium heat until the greens are tender, eight to 10 minutes. Season with salt to taste. Serve right away, either plain or rolled up in warm tortillas. Serves four to six.

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