Another swell place for Chicago-style dogs is Joey D's Chicago Style Eatery in South Minneapolis, run by the Dennis family, Chicago transplants who've made a home away from home for Chicagoans just a few blocks from the old Hiawatha grain mills. Faux parking signs over the tables read, "Cubs Fans only" "Bears Fans only," etc., and pizzas get names like "Jordan's Garden" and "DA Bulls." The Chicago dogs are perfect ($2.25), the fries are very good ($1.75), and the three-pound order of chili cheese fries ($4.10) is that good-bad chaos that's the result of Velveeta cheese sauce and the certainty that you could be a millionaire if only you could sell these things inside the Metrodome. The Italian beef sandwich ($4.75) is another winner, sliced roast beef piled up on a soft Italian loaf and served (for an extra 30 cents) with sautéed green peppers or the hot Italian pickled vegetable mix called Giardenera. (I like mine with double Giardenera; it brightens up the sandwich nicely.) For a real Chicago-style experience, drop by Joey D's during a Cubs game this summer. People pack the front room where the game is televised and fill up the sunny patio outside listening to it on the radio.

Farther west husband-and-wife team Laurie and Mark Pawlicki vend Chicago-style dogs from a bright, cheerful, entirely unlikely spot: the convenience store of Bobby and Steve's Auto World (and Mobil station) at the intersection of France Avenue and I-494. Ever since spending one of their first dates at Mark's favorite dog stand, the Pawlickis (also Chicago natives) have dreamed of opening their own. Paws is a friendly little place that has exactly one red stool to seat one happy customer, and that customer gets to eat at the lunch counter that does double duty as the "Paws Dogs Hot Dog Hall of Fame"; beneath the counter's Plexiglas surface is a photo collage of devoted customers eating Paws dogs.

Paws dogs are exactly what they should be, freshly made from just-chopped ingredients served in the regulation poppy-seed bun. A Chicago-style dog is $2.35, a Chicago with fries $2.94. The fries, incidentally, are excellent, made from a stack of well-scrubbed Idahos cut to order and priced at 79 cents and $1.29. Laurie Pawlicki says the most remarkable facet of the business these days is that work-week regulars have begun bringing their families by on the weekends to introduce them to the Pawlickis and the wonders of the Chicago-style dog. This might be the first documented instance of a gas station becoming a destination family restaurant.

Location Info

Map

The Wienery

414 Cedar Ave. S.
Minneapolis, MN 55454

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Minneapolis (Downtown)

There, I've done it. I've reviewed a gas station. Now if you'll excuse me, I've got to go and change all my locks before the foodie elite comes and busts them open.

TABLEHOPPING

MABEL'S PEPPERED CHEESE: Eleanor Ostman, Minnesota's own Julia Child, has published a book of her favorite columns and recipes from 30 years of her Sunday column in the Pioneer Press, and it's a must for collectors of Minnesotabilia. Always on a Sunday (Sunday Press, $19.95) has all the Minnesota classic recipes you'll ever need, from Cocoa Cherry Alaska to Hamburger Soup to Mabel's Peppered Cheese to Preacher's Original "It's Even Hotter Somewhere Else" Chili, in which half a clove of garlic animates chili for eight. If you ever wondered where those durable church-supper recipes came from, or feel like reaching out to someone who thought they moved away, now's your chance.

Eleanor Ostman's Lime Bars

(December 18, 1977)

* 2 cups flour

* 1/2 cup powdered sugar

* 1 cup butter or margarine

* 4 eggs

* 2 cups sugar

* Dash of salt

* 1/3 cup fresh lime juice

* Powdered sugar

In bowl, combine flour and powdered sugar. Cut in butter. Press mixture into 13-by-9-inch baking pan. Bake in 350 degree oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden. Meanwhile, beat eggs at high speed with electric mixer until light and pale yellow in color. Gradually add sugar and salt. Add lime juice. Continue to beat at high speed. Pour over hot crust. Return to oven for 20 to 25 minutes longer, or until golden. Sprinkle at once with powdered sugar. Cut into bars.

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