Cafe Un Deux Huit

Just like the best plays make you forget you're watching a play, at 128 you sometimes forget you're at a restaurant. The service is attentive and friendly without being intrusive, and the food is interesting without being aggressive, tasty without being persnickety. Through your bubble of comfort you can catch glimpses of Brock and his wife Natalie in the kitchen: grating parmesan, decorating plates, firing the crème brûlée with a blow torch. Back behind the scenes the cycle carries on: Brock says he's gotten the dishwashers to love penne in a sauce made of local chicken-of-the-woods mushrooms.

TABLEHOPPING

STILL EATING UNSEASONED WILDLIFE: Everyone knows that wildlife tastes best coated in prepackaged, mass-produced seasonings hawked by aging rock stars, which is why you should call 1-800-343-HUNT and order Ted Nugent's "Wildlife Seasonings" for $3.95 a bottle--in original, lemon dill, cajun style, and lemon-pepper flavors. According to Ted's latest catalog, "They are ready to rock straight out of the bottle & you won't believe how wonderful they taste!" Ted also supplies "Ted's Own Fish Recipe" (all spelling and grammar irregularities authentic to the original): "Get up early. Wake up loved one. Hit the lake. Embrace sunrize together. Wallow in the Spirit of the Wild. Catch fish of choice. Keep alive & cold. Kill. Scale & filet pure flesh from skeleton. Wash thoroughly in cold water. Pat dry with paper towel. Soak in butter milk for 30 minutes. Drag filets thru WILDLIFE SEASONING batter mix of choice, coating completely. Place in cast iron skillet with one inch of sizzling hot oil. Fry till golden brown. Prepare thinly sliced potatoes in same manner. Serve with fresh fruit &/or veggies. Try to contain your smiling face. Thank God for the glorious bounty of the land & waters. Wallow."

Non-wildlife-eating wuss-bags can still participate in the aging-rocker experience. (Or as Ted puts it: "The physical connection with mother earth is undeniable & our spirit is fulfilled everytime before we fill our gamebag. Go not quietly into that night, but do not go silently into our Wild, flexing the pureness of our God given predator instincts.") How? By ponying up the cash for "I'd rather be huntin'" mouse pads ($11.95), "The Right to Bare Arms" sleeveless Ts ($16.95), or camouflage outfits for newborn babies ($19.95).

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