Elegant Is as Elegant Does

MENU DE L'INDOCHINE:Don't forget that Café Un Deux Trois (114 S. Ninth St., Mpls.; 673-0686) features Asian specialties every Wednesday night. Chef Andrew Zimmern tickles his caprices by offering up delicacies from China, Burma, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Japan that he learned to prepare while living in the Far East. Menus in the past have included succulents like Ahi Tuna Tartare, fresh giant bluefin tuna flown to the Cities directly from Maine, rolled in sesame seeds, lightly charred, thinly sliced, and served with a wasabi crème fraîche and soy- and lemon-based dipping sauce; as well as shrimp tempura and seared duck breast teriyaki. For reservations, call 673-0686.

FISH POUR: Happily, last week's dribble of snowy rain did nothing to dampen the 42nd Annual Trout Run at Jax Cafe. On Tuesday, April 16, Jax filled their beautiful garden stream with over 200 fresh rainbow trout, raised especially at a local fishery for the benefit of your net. Lazy sports enthusiasts can try to catch the "big one," and more than that, have it cooked up Florentine, Parmesan, Frangelica, or Italiano, to name but a few options. This year's featured trout recipe will be Whole Baked Trout with Mushrooms. Just in case you have your own fresh trout stream, Executive Chef Jeff Garlie has been kind enough to share the recipe with us.

Whole Baked Trout with Mushrooms:

* 3 tbsp. butter

* 3 tbsp. vegetable oil

* 6 cups sliced, mixed fresh wild mushrooms

* 1 1/2 cups chopped onion

* 1 large celery stalk, chopped

* 3 tbsp. fresh minced parsley

* 1 1/2 tsp. dried thyme (or to taste)

* 3 oz. prosciutto, thinly sliced and chopped

* 4 whole trout (about 12 oz. each), cleaned and boned

* 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

* 1/4 cup butter, melted

Melt 3 tablespoons butter with oil in large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add mushrooms, onion, celery, parsley, and thyme; Cook until mushroom brown and all liquid evaporates, stirring frequently, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in prosciutto, season to taste with salt and pepper, and cool. (Filling can be prepared one day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Preheat oven to 350. Butter large baking sheet. Open fish like a book, drizzle with lemon juice and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Spoon filling over one side of each fish, dividing equally. Fold second side over, enclosing filling. Place stuffed fish on prepared sheet and brush outside of fish with butter. Bake until cooked through--about 30 minutes. Serve on platter. Yields 4 servings.

DANCE AND DESTROY: Looking for a socially useful way to dance off some of winter's extra paunch? The Lyra Concert and Tapestry Folkdance Center will hold the Benefit Bouquet: an informal evening of dance, music, and food to benefit Lyra Concert and Tapestry Folkdance Center. The evening's festivities will include various types of folk dancing, including English country and international dancing (if you aren't up to snuff, don't fear; dances will be taught). Don't worry about throwing off too much of your tubbiness at once; the event promises (and here I quote) "fancy desserts and finger foods." Live music and a silent auction round things out. The benefit will be held in the Plymouth Congregational Church at 1900 Nicollet Ave., Mpls.; 6-10 p.m. Tickets are $15 per person and can be purchased by calling the Tapestry Folkdance Center at 825-3668.

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